An Extra Step Worth Taking

Butter's roasted pork chops with shiitake mushrooms.

The Restaurant Takeaway column is devoted to restaurant dishes you can make in your own kitchen, tested and tweaked for home cooks.

Searing a steak or a chop in a skillet and then finishing it in the oven is one of those professional chef techniques that deserves to be more widely embraced. Home cooks avoid it because the two-step process seems fussy. Why not just cook the meat in either the oven or the stove? But combining the two is the reason the pork chop you ate at a restaurant last week tasted so much better than the one you make at home.

Searing over high heat for a short amount of time produces a good, rich browning. The oven slows down the cooking, allowing the interior of the meat to finish evenly. You end up with a deeply browned crust revealing soft, juicy flesh.

Once you master the basic technique, you can change your flavorings and garnishes. In this simple recipe from Alex Guarnaschelli, the chef at Butter, the meat is cooked practically naked, then garnished with a mustard vinaigrette and pan-roasted shiitake mushrooms. Serve with buttered noodles, and you’ve got a meal quick enough for a weekday, and better tasting than most.

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